Spain - Barcelona, Zaragoza, Logrono, Pamplona, San Sebastian

 

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Monday 29th April - Thursday, 9th May (10 Nights) in Spain

Summary: Three nights in Barcelona. Train ride to Zaragoza for lunch time tapas, and then back on the train towards Logrono (via an unscheduled bus journey.) Two nights in the capital of the Rioja country before catching a bus to the famous Bullfighting town of Pamplona. Then another bus ride north to San Sebastian for three glorious days in the Basque Country. Our Spanish visit ended by nipping over the French border to Bordeaux to spend Leb's birthday with her sister Lucy.

Arriving in Barcelona (Monday 29th April)

After a rather panic filled long train journey from Porto back to Lisbon (after I goofed booking the flight to Barcelona from there, rather than the northern city), the flight to Barcelona was relatively quick and smooth. When we arrived we were greeted with a downpour but this was the only rain in Spain we experienced.

I booked the cheapest hotel I could find in Barcelona that wasn't too far from the city center and also on the way from the airport. It was therefore a logical booking. We caught the airport bus to the city center and got off just 5 minutes away from our Hostel Bejar. Our first reaction was exciting as the hotel was in a busy area near an old Bull ring, close to Nou Camp, home of FC Barcelona.

Leaving Lisbon's Blue Skies

Bus ride across for the city... 

Our first impressions of the hostal were not great and it didn't get any better. This was definitely the worst room so far - a status that was never surpassed in all the time we spent away.

Hostal Bejar - The Worst Stay of All

Rambling down Las Ramblas in Barcelona (Tuesday 30th April)

The next morning we got up and, thanks to Google maps, located a laundromat to do a much needed wash. It was modern and efficient and reasonably priced. It was also close to several nearby cafes, so we had breakfast and coffees. 

Once we'd dumped our nice clean clothes back in the room it was time to set off to explore the city for the first time. The hostal was close to the famous Plaça Espanya, where an old Bull ring had been converted to a modern shopping centre.

From there, we walked down the Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes towards the city center, heading for three famous buildings of Antoni Gaudí. 

On the way we stopped for a lovely hot chocolate stop at Caua. It was pricey but very delicious.

Soon we had arrived at the bizarre-looking buildings that are a hallmark of Antoni Gaudi. First stop was Casa Milà.

Next we wandered on to the most famous of them all, the still unfinished Sagrada Familia. We hadn't booked in advance and, of course, all the places were taken so we never actually made it inside. Our budget meant that we had to sacrifice some tours and, I have to admit, paying 52 Euros to look at another building dedicated to the great bearded man in the sky, seemed a bit excessive, so we passed.

Parade of the cutest kids, presumably on a school trip

We stopped for a well earned rest and refreshments.

... before heading back towards the city centre. We stopped at some more Gaudi (and other, in my opinion even more impressive) buildings.

... as well as a market place.

... before stopping at Casa Batlló, another Gaudi classic.

We passed through the Plaça de Catalunya before heading on down La Rambla.

The stroll down La Rambla was very pleasant and we built up quite an appetite so we headed through the old town to 4 Cats, allegedly the oldest bar in Barcelona. 

Then we headed to a couple of nearby markets.

Then we went down to the huge waterfront. 

After all this, it was with tired feet that we headed back to our room. Instead of walking back, we went by metro as my feet could not take any more walking. Lesley, of course, could have walked for another hundred kilometres.

After such a long walking day and as we'd only spent a tiny amount of time at Hostel Bejar, it did feel like a big relief getting back there... if only for a few minutes. Then, it began to dawn on us what an absolute shit hole the place was. Our tiny, room was three narrow doors away from a rather disgusting shared toilet and as we settled down to sleep it soon became apparent that the walls were made out of paper. Right next door to our bed, the manager coughed up what we could only imagine were sluggish huge green grollies all night long. We both got ill after this stay and we're convinced we caught the bug from El hombre con la tos repugnante e interminable.

First Day in Barcelona

2nd Day in Barcelona (Thursday 2nd May)

Another long bimble in Barca was the agenda for today. We had another nice brekkie walking down avenue Paral Lel. 

We headed back to La Rambla for more delicious hot chocolate. 

Then we headed back through the narrow streets of the old town, where I'd nearly met Roz when she visited just a couple of weeks before I did last time I was here, in 2019. 

This was followed by a surprise in Barceloneta - its beach. This was something I'd never associated with the city before and never seen on any of my previous visits. 

Then, we walked up to Park de Monjuïc, where I had been before, way back for one of the earliest Microsoft Tech Ed conference events.

There are some stunning views of the city from up there.

After scaling the heights it was time to descend back down and fill up with by far the best paella I'd ever had and copious amounts of sangria.

After finding a bottle of the local (Moritz) beer, we headed back to our "shit hole" of a room for the last night in Barcelona.

Leaving Barcelona for Logroño via Zaragoza (Friday 3nd May)

We woke up, relieved to be leaving Hostel Bejar and soon we were gone.

Perhaps the main reason I'd booked this place (apart from the price) was its close proximity to Barcelona's main railway station. The place we were due to catch our train to our next destination, Zaragoza.

Sure enough, it was a very convenient walk. 5-10 minutes at most.

There was a bit of a panic finding the right platform and the station generally was very busy but we got there in time.

Bye Bye Bejar. Never Again.

As the train pulled out, we headed *west* from Barcelona (not north-west as I'd imagined) to Zaragoza for a few hours of sight seeing  hot chocolate and delicious tapas.

We arrived at the lovely-sounding station of Zaragoza Delicias and then planned a mini-tour of the old city: a walk by the river Ebro, a look at some sites, some Tapas and then back on the train to resume our journey north.

After another delicios hot chocolate we headed to El Tubo - for some tapas.

Back at the station, we waited for our train to Logrono for a while but it was late. It soon became apparent that there was a problem and that the train wouldn't take us all the way, but we'd have to get off half way through the journey and catch a connecting bus. 

The train journey was fine.

As was the bus journey...

As was the final leg, back on the train again...

Finally we arrived in  the Rioja region and the lovely town of Logroño. Our room here was 10x better and 3x cheaper than bastard Bejar. 

After unpacking, we set off immediately to find something to eat. The hotel could not have been more centrally placed and literally around the corner was a street with scores of superb tapas bars. Wow. The food and wine in Spain... are so good. We dined on deliciousness and downed a few glasses of rioja before hitting the sack in a much better accommodation in the town centre, adjacent to the Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda de Logroño.

Calle de San Juan

deliciosa

Drinking Tempranillo in Logroño (Saturday 4th May)

The next day was a lovely indulgent day in the impressive town of Logroño, capital of the Rioja region.  We visited the bodegas (winery) very close to the town centre just ion the other side of the same Ebro river we'd walked alongside in Zaragoza the day before. 

The only tour that was convenient was in Spanish. I must admit, we didn't understand much of what the tour guide was saying but it was still enjoyable.

Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda de Logroño

After the bodega visit it was time for a luxurious tapas bar crawl with more lashings of fabulous red wine.

The streets were empty at 7:30 but filled up later.

Absolutely delicious. 

Bus from Logroño to Pamplona (Sunday 5th May)

We woke up in Logrono after the second night, knowing we had to walk to the bus station, not the train station we'd arrived at. It was a bit of a challenge finding it, but we easily got there in time.

On the way there, we stopped for brekkie.

The bus station was modern and busy and was populated by a bunch of kids apparently off to play basketball somewhere.

The Logroño to Pamplona bus ride was smooth enough. 

As we approached Pamplona there were every more people seen hiking on the roadside - all of them doing the Camino (Jesus pilgrimage walk thing).

When we finally arrived at our next accommodation, unpacked and went out to explore we were greeted with a vibrant vibe in the city center. 

Our hotel was just a few doors away from one of the oldest cafes in Pamplona: The Cafe Roch. The facade was under repair when we were there but here's a better image...

Still it was very busy and we had a nice seat outside.

Once we left the café we were almost swept away by a group of people singing along to brass instruments.

My main objective for that afternoon was to find a bar to watch the Forest match and, after a bit of a panic we found a good old Irish pub that was going to show it. Miraculously, it seems now, I watched Forest beat Sheff Utd helping them to secure their Premier League status for another year.

Although the bar owner was a local, Spaniard, he looked as Irish as you could get and was dedicated to the culture of the island.

When in an Irish Pub... have a point of the de black stuff.

Forest's 3-1 win opened up a three point gap above Luton Town with just two games to go. It now looked that Forest would escape the drop again, despite being penalised 4 points for transfer irregularities.

Later we had some of the most delicious donuts ever. 

Delicious.

Pamplona (Monday 6th May)

We had a full day to explore Pamplona and we planned to spend most of it walking: effectively doing our (tiny) bit of the Camino de Santiago. On the way we visited the amazing Pamplona bullring then we followed the river along with many with trendy looking walking sticks doing their pilgrimage.

Where the matadors go for (perhaps) their last mass.

After the bullring we went for a long walk by the river Arga.

Through the gate and back into the city center

Not as nice as the night before.

So that was another great day completed. Tomorrow, we were catching another bus to San Sebastian.

Pamplona to Donostia (San Sebastian) (Tuesday 7th May)

It was with a bit of a heavy heart that we left Pamplona. You quickly fall in love with these beautiful old towns and although it's great to move on to the next one, it always feels sad to leave one that you've only just started to get to know.

Again, we stopped for brekkie on the way to the bus station.

The bus soon wound its way into the beautifully green hilly Basque Country and soon we were arriving in Donostia (as San Sebastian is called in Euskadi - the Basque language.)

The bus station is very central, positioned right by the river Urumea, or the estuary (or Itsassadarra) as it's called near the sea.

It was a five minute walk along the river, only needing to cross one magnificent bridge, before arriving at our hotel for three nights. This one was wonderful and great value for money.

It's ironic that our Spanish accommodation experience started so badly in Barcelona. Every one after that was great. The host was a really nice chap and was proud to show us all the facilities and provide some great recommendations for places to eat.

My Basque Cheat Sheet

Soon we were off exploring San Sebastian. I'd been here once before in 2016, popping over the border during my tour around France for the Euros in 2016. I loved it then, and was very keen to explore some more.

The old town streets are particularly magical and atmospheric.

Koruko Andre Mariaren basilika

We walked along to the Pasealuku Berria (or "new promenade") where the power of the Bay of Biscay was pretty much in your face. Very bracing.

After walking to the harbour and back we sampled some of the many tapas recommendations we'd been given and then settled in for a very comfortable night's sleep.

Day 1 in San Sebastian (Wednesday 8th May)

Donostia has it all: Beautiful old town with endless delicious pintxo bars, gorgeous protected beach, spectacular hilly views, and a totally unique language and culture and... so much more.

So, for our first of two full days in San Sebastian we decides to explore the west side of the city. We strolled along the protected beach and went up the lift to the hill that overlooked it. This wad the first time I'd ever done this so I was very excited.

Again, first brekkie in a local café.

Cheesy Potato snacks.

The best cheese cake ever

Amazing rock formations

Arriving at the finiculare

Amazing views from the top...

On the way back down, we took a wrong turn but at least had a nice walk out of it.

Back down on the beach...

Out on the town again...

Last Day in the Basque Country (Thursday 9th May)

This was the last day in Iberia before heading to France. We had a lovely walk to the castle overlooking spectacular Donostia, followed by a fruitful pintxo tour of the suburb of Gros over the river from the old town. 

After another stroll around the old town, I left Leb in the room to do some reading whilst I ventured out again to watch Real Madrid overcome Bayern München in the Champions League semi final.

The view from our balcony.

Motako Gaztelua

The views from Motako Gaztelua, a walled keep dating back to the 12th century, were amazing.

I love the wooded area to the north side of the keep.

We watched one of those tourist videos about San Sebastian where they recommended a whole load of Pintxo restaurants in Gros, a suburb on the east side of the river. So that was our next destination.

Last wine in Donostia.

I headed off to find a bar to watch the football and ended up sitting next to a Borussia Dortmund fan.

I was surprised there was so much support in the bar for Real Madrid, I have to admit. I thought they'd be universally loathed in the Basque Country.

Adios Espana (Friday 10th May)

Adios España, allo encore, La France!

From Donostia to the Bordeaux region of France and Lucy's tranquil piece of paradise near Nérigean.

Spain Expenditure Summary (Resumen financiero)

Although Barcelona was extremely expensive generally, we paid very little in terms of accommodation there. This is something we regretted because Hostel Bejar was easily the worst place we stayed in the whole trip. The walls seemed to be made of cardboard and that allowed the endless disgusting coughing and spluttering of the hotel manager come from the office next door into our room. We both got ill after our stay there. Never again. We took advantage of the delicious cuisine and, unsurprisingly, spent quite a lot on eating out.

Mood Summary (Estado de ánimo Resumen)

Our time in Spain was generally a happy one, although it started with some bad news. A member of the family - albeit one that had been separated for years - died after a short illness. Barcelona was wet and windy when we arrived at our substandard, but cheap, accommodation. 

Things went well after that bad start though. The first day was productive and lovely. Leb and I had a bit of an argument about scrimping and saving. I tend to be much more laisse faire on this subject, Leb is much more sensible. The second day in Barcelona was one of the best of the holiday so far. The train ride to Zaragoza and the time spent there was great too, as was our two days in Logroño.

Pamplona was great too and so was San Sebastian. So much delicious food and drink

Alcohol Summary

It was a pretty boozy time in Spain again, I must admit, although alcohol consumption was wasn't as high as in Portugal. The trip to the Rioja winery was always going to be the highlight from that point of view and I downed almost a double skinful that day. But the Tempranillo was flowing copiously pretty much all the time we were in Spain and not much in the way of beers or spirits.

The holiday So Far

The ten days spent in Spain were pretty standard (in a brilliant par kind of way!) in comparison to the other countries visited so far. It was the third longest stay of six, the third most expensive, and the third booziest. To say it was "average" though is only right if you remember it's all been *brilliant* so far!