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Pět dní v České republice (Five Days in the Czech Republic.)
Friday, 30th August - Wednesday 4th September 2026.
Ahoj Česká republika! (Friday, 30th August)
Day 175 ~ Accomodation 72 Flight 18 Country 22.
We must have crossed the border with Italy somewhere over the alps. Down below there, somewhere, was Austria. And soon we'd be landing in Munich.
Once in Germany what a relief it was not to have to go through security and passport control again. Ah... the EU. A uniquely enlightened paradise on Earth.
München flughaven is very swish and I couldn't resist getting a burger as bratwurst mit semf was not an option. It was touch and go for a moment if the burger would be ready in time for boarding the final flight to Prague but it all went very smoothly in the end.
This flight was delayed too but we forgave Lufthansa when they handed out little bars of delicious Lindt chocolate.
We arrived at Vaclav Havel International airport at 22:10 and thanks to Google Maps we were on the bus to hlavní nádraží (Central station) less than twenty minutes later.The currency in the Czech Republic is the Krona and there's about 16 to the Aussie dollar. This resulted in this stupid old man goofing up the zeros at the ATM and drawing out maybe a million units of local money. Who knows?
I'd deliberately booked an apartment near the main station so once we'd worked out we needed to go down a level it was just a seven minute walk to a nice looking pad on the top floor, next door to a convenience store which I returned to for milk, Pilsner and wine.

We both slept very well!
Prague Day 1 (Saturday, 31st August)
Day 176 ~ Boozy day in Prague.
We woke up after the best sleep in a while in our top floor flat near Prague Central Station and Leb had soon discovered that the nearby National Opera Theatre was showing a performance on Nabucco tomorrow night at 5pm. What a coincidence! Last time we were here 27 years ago, in 1997, that's what we saw too.
No brainer.
We got up. Walked FOUR minutes to the booking office and bought our seats. No Slavia Prague for me then. No contest.
Then we walked down Wenceslas square (definitely a long thin oblong) toward the old town before we decided to go to another "Exploit" (rather than "Explore") option and go to U Fleků (according to Google Translate it means "for stains"! although I have been reliably informed "on the spot" might be a better translation.)
When we got there, there was a queue but we soon got in to the Tavern that had allegedly been selling booze since 1499.
The beer was as good as we remembered but not the food. My "beef with dumplings" was like school dinners' tinned meat. And how can a slice of soggy bread be called a "dumpling"? (Again, I've been reliably informed that my beef with the dumplings is unjustified. They're supposed to be like that. Just goes to show how memories can fade in 27 years.)
Whilst soaking in the nice Central European atmosphere (lovely accordionist/singer) we were entertained by a Danish guy who was participating in the Balut international championships. (Don't ask - I didn't! Some kind of dice game).
Then we walked over the massive Vltava River and back before Leb and I split for "me time". She did some more pottering around, me... predictable and boring as ever, went to a pub to watch football. The lovely guy at the Brit Bar had promised to show Forest if I came back at 4pm and he was true to his word.
Another family in the bar were watching a game intently. PVL v DON was, I assumed some Italian or Portuguese match until I twigged it was Port Vale v Doncaster Rovers. Their lad was wearing a Donnie Rovers shirt after all. Should have been obvious. Anyway Donnie won 3-2. To my left was a young couple from Manchester celebrating their first anniversary. Another family from the south of England somewhere were also present.
When Chris Wood put Forest 1-0 up they all shared at least a bit of my joy but, equally, were happy to laugh at me moments later when Wolves got a great equaliser.
The rest of the match, tense for me, was oblivious to them as they sought to buy tix for the much vaunted Oasis tour coming up next year.
"Ooooh I've just gone up 100 places in the queue"
"We're in!"
"Bloody hell. We just got booted off"
Etc
Meanwhile the young Donnie lad, who bizarrely was also a Wolves fan, and me tried to watch the game.
It all ended up square so I headed back to the pad to catch up with Leb.
Later we went out to Wenceslas Square for some salad for Leb and then to the impressive Beer Point where you serve your own beers from a range of 14. Very good idea. No bloody fancy cocktails that take five minutes to make, just pour your own.
Prague Day 2 (Sunday, 1st September)
Day 177 ~ Alas, last day in Prague already.
We got up and set off earlier than usual and headed off to the beautiful square in the center of the Old town. (Not that every square, corner, road is *not* beautiful in this city.)
The astronomical clock is a thing of wonder. A fusion of art and science. We decided to have a coffee right next to it and paid the price: The most expensive coffee ever. Prague is pricy (maybe that's what Praha means!...
Malgorzata S Danicka?) So we looked for street food and found a hot dog seller but even they were about 130 krona each. We walked past the Jewish cemetery but they wanted about $40 aud each to actually go in. No way.
Then, we crossed Manesův most (Manes Bridge) and climbed the steps to Prague castle from where you get the most beautiful views of the city. Entrance to the Hrad is thankfully free and the whole place is magical. St Vitus' Cathedral is especially awesome but I couldn't help invoking feelings of disgust that so much effort and skill, so many lives, so much money was expended in the name of some crazy myth.
Then we descended back down towards the Vltava, past a Pinocchio puppet in a marionette store, to the splendid Charles Bridge and back to our appartment via another Franz Kafka monument.
After a shower and getting changed into our "posh" gear (!) we were out again, four minutes away to the exquisite State Opera House to watch a superb performance of Joe Green's (Giuseppe Verdi) opera, Nabucco, coincidentally 27 years since we were last here, doing exactly the same.
As ChatGPT described it (with a bit of prompting)...
"Giuseppe Verdi's *Nabucco* contrasts the sublime beauty of its music, particularly the "Chorus of the Hebrew Slaves," with the hateful rhetoric of its lyrics. While the music evokes deep emotion and a sense of unity, the libretto reflects the senseless conflicts born of religious fanaticism, highlighting the absurdity and dangers of dogmatic zeal."
Well said, that AI!
After that we had a burger and a beer/wine at Fat Katz on Wenceslas Oblong where a waiter told us how to say thanks in Czech (not "sneaky" but "Diky") and then finally we hobbled back around the corner bumping into some Slavia Prague fans adorned in red and white. Their team had won 2-0. Good game but, to be honest, not a patch on the 6-6 I'd seen at the Opera.
Not quite done, I'm on the cannabis (well chocolate enhanced) and wine now.
Got to!!! It's the Holiday of a lifetime!
Prague Day 3 (Monday, 2nd September)
Day 178 Accommodation 73 ~ Train from Prague to Plzen.
We had to vacate our nice apartment in Prague before 10am so we were already at the Main Railway Station by 10:15. I queued up to buy two tickets to the next stop on the adventure, Pilzen, and by the time I was served I was told the next train was in ten minutes and, yes, we could catch it easily.
I scampered back up to Leb and we set off to find platform 1. Not difficult, you'd think. But they have North and South and various letters too. The upshot of it was that we found the train just as that whistle blew and all the doors slammed shut, locked and bolted.
The next train to Plzen was on the way to Munich and I was worried if our ticket would still apply so I went back to the ticket office to ask.
"Any train, any time" was the reply.
So we had 50 minutes to get a burger and a coffee.
There was no panic this time and we got on and watched as the train wound its way through the green Czech countryside.
Once in Plzen it was a twenty minute walk to our next accommodation on the edge of the old town.
Once we'd settled in and relaxed we set off to explore. The centre square is really impressive. It's huge with a massive cathedral in the center.
Leb popped into a chemist whilst I hung around waiting outside as I heard the haunting sound of Chris Isaak's "Wicked Game". (
https://open.spotify.com/track/7w5AOd6HrDIHewHfpABEss...) The sound was coming from the end of the street we were on and I was drawn to it. As I got closer I realised it was a very talented busker.
Two songs later, Leb joined me and we decided to sit down, have a beer, and enjoy some more.
Of course, Murphy's Law... he had just finished his set and it was another guy's turn. The next performer was a pretty good guitarist too but didn't have such a sweet voice.
We decided to explore some more of Plzen and went to the Old Synagogue which is apparently the 2nd largest in Europe where, bizarrely, there was an exhibition of photographs from "Russia's" brutal war in Ukraine.
After that we headed to Lokál Pod Divadlem for some delicious (and, at last, moderately priced) Czech food and a lovely dark beer. Then we walked back to our new place through the green belt which had beautifully maintained gardens and a couple of Smetana statues: Frankišek the architect and Bedrich the composer.
Pilzen Day 1 (Tuesday, 3rd September)
Day 179 ~ Suppin' Czech ale like t'locals.
Our Plzen appartment is very nice and well located but I suppose the hosts have no control over local building work. From 8am or earlier we were woken by the sound of nails hammering and wood being sliced by electric saws.
Time to get up.
We went to a local called Mansfield (actually U Mansfelda, after some Luxembourg warrior in the middle ages, Von Mansfeld, not the mining town in Notts near where I'm from).
We had a stroganoff themed dinner with more of those Czech "dumplings" (think thick slices of Wonderloaf) and a nice local beer Pole Lán that wasn't pilsener beer.
Then we ambled along to the world famous Plzen brewery. Where "Pils" got its name. The bottom fermenting method in cool cellars technique that somevGerman breweries adopted and tried to make their own (Beck's schmechs) all came from here.
Once we arrived we realised the tour we'd booked on was in German and seeing that there was an English tour in an hour and a half and remembering our Rioja (Spanish) winery tour in Logroño, we quickly changed to that one
So... what to do for an hour or so? Well it just so happens that on the other side of the river Radbuza, just a few hundred metres away, was the Doosan stadium, home ground of Viktoria Pilzen. Woy wuncha?
After a stroll around the stadium (obviously too big a club to let some random nerdy football dick 'ed actually look inside) we crossed back over the footbridge to the Pilsner Urquell brewery for our English language tour.
I must admit it was very impressive. Soooo huge. So much capacity. So many underground caves for fermenting. The short tour guide (her height not the length of the tour) did a great job despite some rude bastards at the back who just chatted away far too loudly.
The tour ended with everyone having a glass of cold unfiltered Pilsner straight from the (gigantic) barrels. Best lager I've ever had for sure.
We then walked back 500m back to our pad where the building work had stopped.
After a bit of a snooze I left Leb to chat to friends as I headed for the oldest pubs in town. The first, oldest and best was Šenk na Parkanu just around the corner from us where I was able to get another unfiltered 400ml of Urquell.
Next, at most 300m away, was U Salzmannů. Ok. Old but filtered Pilsner is not my favourite.
So, third and last, to the Pivstro bar on the opposite corner of the old town.
They have a good selection of beers only one of which is Pilsner Urquell. This reminded me of Dublin and the total dominance of Guiness there. I wanted to support the little guys so I ordered a tasting tray. I didn't think to ask what that entailed as in aus you get pretty much a thimble full of each beer to taste... hence "tasting tray".
Apparently in Czeska Republik you just get four big ones (400mls.) Eek. Somehow I managed them all. The house beer was my favourite followed by a session beer then a IPA and last but not too bad was a Belgian.
I trotted back very contentedly looking forward to Nuremberg (home of meine Oma und Onkel) tomorrow.
Pilzen Day 2 (Wednesday, 4th September)
Day 180 Accomodation 74 ~ Sbohem Česká republika, Schön, wieder in Nürnberg zu sein.
We were woken at 7am with loud metalic banging next door. They must start work really early in the Czech Republic.
Anyway, clearly it was time to shake a leg, get packed (a routine we're now pretty good at!) and check out.
We walked back across the main square and found a great place to sit down and have a most delicious breakfast and a coffee. Leb had spinach pancakes and I had muffins with bacon and scrambled egg.
The bus station was another 15 minutes walk away and looked like something from the Soviet era. It's a pretty big station but for the first half an hour we were there I counted only one or two buses coming or going. It was also a bit disconcerting that our "Flixbus" to Nuremberg wasn't on the departures list. When I asked I was told that Flixbus are some kind of independent entity that is not part of the standard schedule. As 12:20 approached three buses arrived at the stops near where we were waiting - all bound for Ukraine. One guy was wearing a Ukrainian tryzub T-shirt and I greeted him with a "Slava Ukraini!" but his reaction indicated little enthusiasm. Maybe because so many Ukrainians were going to be getting on these buses my enthusiasm was out of place.
Oh well. Only 7 minutes late, a bus bound for Nuremberg did arrive. It wasn't the green Flixbus I was expecting but Leb spotted the destination at the front so we soon got on.
The three hour trip was pleasant, mainly bombing along motorways and dual carriageways through forests and green hills. Blink, and you'd miss the border crossing. One second we were in the Czech Republic, next back in Germany.
Germany...
The hotel I booked was 200m from where the bus stopped and we were soon unpacking yet again and getting ready to explore yet another city.
Nuremberg is a bit special for me as my Oma and Onkel both lived here after the war and I came here with my mum to visit them almost exactly 50 years ago. My uncle Josep was a big football fan and bought us three tickets to watch games im WM74 (Welt Meistershaft 1974.) The first in Munich (Poland 7 Haiti 0 is the only football match my mum went to), the second was in Frankfurt (Scotland 1 Yugoslavia 1... England didn't even qualify) and the final one was in Stuttgart (Poland 2 Italy 1
https://youtu.be/5_5CztD1FSk?si=uYttHsmZNtXMt9SJ).
After bratwurst mit semf und sauerkraut, Leb and me had a stroll around the old town and it definitely brought back some memories, especially the view from the castle over the city. Just hearing German being spoken all around does somehow feel quite homely to me. I want to try to find out more about "Jupp" while I'm here.