<<< Back to Bosnia-Herzegovina
Twelve Days in the Hidden Gems of Crna Gora (Montenegro).
Thursday, 8th August - Tuesday, 20th August 2026.
Summary:
Well i
Jodie's Curve Update
A bit like waiting for buses, after waiting for months for a new country to visit before finally visiting a new on in Cyprus, they were coming thick and fast now. After Bosnia, straight away, it was Montenegro. This FYR (former Yugoslav Republic) only gained its independence in 2006 and so is the second newest country in Europe. Only Kosovo is younger, having declared its independence two year later. It's pretty small too - the 9th smallest.
Still, passing into Montenegro chalked off my 68th country and, as I was still technically 65 years old, this made me three "over par" on Jodies Curve.
Full table of countries visited...
Zdravo, Hercog Novi (Crna Goro)! (Thursday, 8th August.)
The passport control out of BiH took a twenty minutes or so before getting back on the bus to drive through a slice claimed by Serbia. Welcome to Respublika Srpska is the sign you're greeted with going the other way. The border is very close to Croatia as well and within another twenty minutes we arrived at our next stop, Hercog Novi.
Soon the bus was winding down the mountain towards the fabulous sight of the Bay of Kotor and the gem of a town nestled against it. It has a typically chequered history for this part of the world (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herceg_Novi) and the name is derived (like Herzegovina) from the word "Duke" alluding to times when royalty ruled, not the people.
After two months of sciatica pain from Sacro-Iliac joint dysfunction, Leb wasn't really looking forward to a five hour bus ride, but it seems it wasn't too bad this time. It was definitely getting better.
Not wanting to carry our bags for 20 minutes, we got a taxi to our 65th home of the trip, a small but quite swish apartment with a sea view.
Having settled in and got changed we were off 200m down to the rocky/pebbly beach for a lovely snorkel. We took turns to go in and I risked using my waterproof smartphone cover to take some under-water images.
Then we walked along the picturesque broad walk right by the sea to the old town.
There, next to an imposing statue of Sveti Stepan, the area's founder, and under the old castle walls, was a fabulous water polo stadium which boasted hosting many teams from around the world including the UWA Water Polo team.
I had fried fish and beer (Leb... salad) next to the harbour. Then a stroll back to our apartment as the sun set.
When we got back, I opened a big bottle of local red wine, had a shower and then watched Forest win 4-3 in a friendly in not-too-far-away Piraeus at Olimpiacos the other club owned by the man himself, Evangelos Marinakis. A great individual goal by Elanga added to a sharp poach by Wood and a brace from Yatesey, continuing Forest's impressive pre season. Bring on Bournemouth!
Another fantastic day with mi darling.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Friday, 9th August.)
The next day we spent walking around the old town.
Late morning walk along the shore to the old town to buy some bits and bobs. I then tried to change 30 Bosnian Marks into Euros with limited success. The 3rd bank we tried did exchange the note but not the coins.
Then we had a beer at a Cafe overlooking the bay with the Croatian border within sight. The Serbian waiter spotted my Forest shirt and we had a chat about football like we were best mates. I told him I watched Forest play Red Star Belgrade before he was born. I'd forgotten the details at the time but I've just looked it up and it was an odd friendly arranged in February after Forest had been knocked out in the 2nd round by CSKA Sofia.The score was 0-0 in Nottingham. The guy told us about the war and how nearby Dubrovnik was shelled by Serbian forces. "They hate us. We hate them."
Nicely refreshed in the heat, we decided to explore the very impressive castle, Forte Mare, that dominates the old town. Some fantastic views from the top there.
Then we walked back to the apartment to get changed and go for a snorkel. The idea was that we'd do it together but somehow we got separated anyway.
After a nice afternoon kip, it was back along the front for the last time and a very nice piece of freshly grilled sea bass. On the walk back I couldn't resist a double scoop of coconut ice cream. Yum!
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Satuday, 10th August.)
The next day we spent walking around the old town
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Sunday, 11th August.)
Day 156 ~ Watching the cents in Kotor. So much for the idea "Eastern" Europe would be cheap. Ouch! Touristy Kotor is very pricy so we had a low budget day of walking (and not the boat ride or cycle hire I'd originally planned).
Walked up the coast to the aquarium which was closed. It was another scorcher (35C) so we had a beer at the Bandiera watching Italy on their way to gold, brushing past the USA in the women's volleyball final before, understandably, they switched over channels to watch the final of the men's water polo: Serbia v Croatia.
Then we walked along the top of the old town walls before going back to a tiny beach area just along from one of the mega cruise liners that somehow squeezed into dock here.
The swim was very refreshing. As always the best way to cool down when it's hot is to go for a dip. (And we still teach our students we evolved on the savannah!)
After sunset cooled the town a little we went out to one of the many restaurants here. We shared a decent pizza and had a couple of beers which cost $55 (aud)!
In one of those Murphy's Law football incidents that riddled the earlier part of the trip, I found out that the local football team Kotor Bokelj were playing this evening, but away. Next week, when we'll be in Podgorica, their team will be playing away too. If I were a Trump supporter I'd think there was a conspiracy going on!
Then it was back to the appointment for a few glasses of much cheaper local red wine. We watched the all time classic Shawshank Redemption. Feeling like it's time to get busy living.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Monday, 12th August.)
Day 157 ~ Last day in Kotor. Lazy morning followed by walk to Western side of the bay via the Kotor Bokelj stadium (early league leaders in Montenegro). Nice snorkel in the shallows with millions of mussels clinging to every rock. Watched a ridiculously huge cruise liner spin round and exit the port.
Then got a bit dressed up and out for a few beers and a posh meal out at the oldest restaurant in Kotor old town, Konoba Scala Santa. Lovely ambience but a bit pricy.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Tuesday, 13th August.)
The Day 158 ~ South from Kotor, over the Lovćen mountains down to the Adriatic coast, through the big touristy town of Bodva (population 15,000) and on to our 67th home in the seaside village of Pržno (population 500).
The walk to the bus stop was fine as we arrived an hour early for a coffee. It wasn't too good to see Google Maps warn of a sever fire near our next stop after this but it turned out the fire was put out days ago.
The bus ride was just over an hour and very pleasant too. The driver's lad (I presume) looked after the luggage and kindly agreed to stop at the tiny fishing hamlet we were staying at.
Our room is two minutes walk from the packed Pržno Beach and six minutes from the less packed and idyllic looking Queen's beach. So we did a snorkel in both. Then we visited our neighbouring restuarant (literally next door), Konoba Zago. The owner had earlier helped us find our apartment as it was not obvious. He was born in the area but lived most of his life in the USA and had a quite distinctive New York accent. He didn't like my first guess "Canadian" and wasn't won over either when I said he sounded like a young Woody Allen.
Still the tuna steaks and salad were very nice. We finished with a very nice green walnut liqueur called Orahovac we were given "on the house" (after I saw rhe bill I could see why!) Vana Tallinn has a challenger at last. We then popped into the local grocery store for some provisions. Cheese, bread, a bag of crisps... oh and a litre of very nice Vranac (Montegrin red wine) for €3.50.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Wednesday, 14th August.)
Day 159 ~ Snorkelling in the beautiful waters around Sveti Stefan.
The coast of Montenegro has been one of the best discoveries of this trip and we spent the day walking to the slightly off shore island next to Sveti Stefan to do the first of three snorkels.
Brekkie at the hotel, Pizza by the beach and cevapi in the evening. Petrovac continues the theme tomorrow.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Thursday, 15th August.)
Day 160 Accomodation 68. Short trip south along the Adriatic coast to Petrovać (population 1,400).
Rather than lug our bags 20 minutes to the nearest bus stop we decided to take a taxi directly to our 68th home of the trip.
The ride was smooth with startling views of the coast, quick and easy, but the trouble was that we arrived four hours before our room was ready. So, we had to kill time by going for a stroll along Petrovac beach (terrible, eh?). When we checked back at the hotel the room still wasn't ready so we were invited to wait by the pool. (It's a hard life!)
We were entertained by a family of what seemed to me to be water polo experts before the room was finally ready.
Then, after getting changed, we went back down to the beach to go to the idyllic spot we'd seen all these young dudes diving into the sea. The idea was to jump in with our snorkels, then swim around to a wonderfully inviting turquoise bay round the corner. But the reality of realising what was actually involved when it was time to get out, either by climbing up scary-looking rocks, something the youngsters made look so easy, or by swimming across a channel of water that boats regularly crossed, sunk in and we chickened out. Instead we just did an old fogies gentle snorkel in the shallows, followed by a couple of beers, a burger and an ice cream. Another great day was capped off watching FYR teams in Europe.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Friday, 16th August.)
Day 161 ~ Last day by the coast for a while.
Spent most of the day at the Ponta Beach Club in Petrovać. Odd name, as it doesn't have a beach. Still €12 for a sun bed/shade for the whole day, a very nice brekkie (omelette and crepes) and relatively cheap beer was good value I reckon. Leb and I took turns snorkelling whilst the other looked after the valuables whilst reading or listening to podcasts.
For one of my turns I went off to the nearby OFK Petrovać stadium. Compact but cute and idyllically set by the Adriatic. Montenegrin away fans must love coming here. And to think, we Forest fans used to think Blackpool was a great away day to look forward to.
On another turn I swam a little way south past a cave a family had bagsied for their picnic to the next one which was even smaller. I strode up onto its tiny pebbly beach thinking that I should return there with Leb.
The sea was much choppier than it was yesterday and so any thoughts of going back to the young dude dive spot we were so tempted by yesterday were immediately put away. In fact it got worse as the day progressed putting a stop to any return to my cave too.
Eventually it was time to go and we had street food again (cevapi and chicken burger) and I couldn't resist a double helping of coconut heaven ice cream.
Then, back at the hotel, it was soooo nice to cool off in the pool before having a shower.
Now looking forward to the start of the Premier League season as I've just discovered Manchester United v Fulham is going to be shown live on one of the channels in our room.
Fingers crossed I get similar luck tomorrow in Podgorica for Forest v Bournemouth.
Managed to find a pub (Scottish pub McCloud) in Podgorica to watch Forest. Staff all so helpful.
Didn't see the Danilo injury let's hope its not as bad as they say. Good first half overall 1-0 to the tricky trees. Great to see Stags winning again too.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Saturday, 17th August.)
Day 162 Accomodation 69 to the capital of Montenegro, Podgorica.
We got up quite early in our lovely apartment in Petrovac and had brekkie on the balcony before walking up a steep hill to the bus station. Now I'd sussed this out the night before and asked the young lady specifically about bus times and fares to Budva the next morning and she'd told me (I thought) quite clearly that they'd go at such and such times and that I need only turn up ten minutes before to buy a ticket.
This we did. Same counter. Same woman. Same destination. But somehow she sold me a ticket to Bar not Budva and when we got on the bus labelled Budva (I.e. FROM Budva) the wheels were set in motion for a bit of a cock up, to say the least. We realised pretty quickly we were heading in the wrong direction so we got off. Then what to do? We waited for a while for a bus going the other way but after a bit of deliberation we decided to get a taxi. That cost €40 but at least we were in time for our bus to Podgorica (price €7!) Of course Murphy's law intervened and the bus was an hour late.
Eventually it came and climbed up the mountain near Budva and over toward Podgorica.
The trip took just over an hour and we got a cab to our 69th home of the trip. I was in a panic by this time as it was only 30 mins to the big kick off at the City Ground. So Leb went off to do some shopping whilst I searched for a pub that was showing the English Premier League.
I went to three before I found the Scottish McLeod pub that had Forest on screen - but only as an update from the Everton v Brighton game. Anyway, realising that was the match I wanted to see, they very generously put the Forest game on for me. After seeing Danilo stretchered off with a terrible injur, Forest settled down to control most of the first half and go in 1-0 up at the break. The second half was very frustrating and Bournemouth equalised late to ruin the opening day for me.
Then it was back to the apartment to see Leb and chill.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Sunday, 18th August.)
Age 65. Officially (as well as metaphorically) an owd codger from now on.
It was so nice to receive so many kind birthday wishes. Much appreciated. I hope I didn't miss anyone.
Thanks to my gorgeous, lovely, kind, wonderful ... [add superlative of your choice here] Leb and my dear family I had the best birthday ever.
The day started with a lovely video call with all the Kuliukai including Medeia, Lenny Banjo and Pippin the dog. It was so nice to see all their happy faces at the same time and hear all their latest news. Leb ended the call by leading with a hilarious group sing song "laimingu metu, laimingu" (Lithuanian happy birthday).
Then we were off for brekkie just exactly as a thunderstorm started and rain threatened.
Leb chose a restaurant just around the corner from us which coincidentally was right next to the Podgorica City stadium, the same one England won 5-1 in on their way to the 2020 Euros with Forest winger Callum Hudson-Odoi making his full England debut that day. https://youtu.be/VDBVwSzuTEI?si=PZtzWdsVydhdyKPs
The actual restaurant we hoped for was closed but right next door were others. The brekkie itself was pretty good... almost a full English. Egg & chips with sausage all washed down with a nice coffee as the rain stopped.
Then it was wine "tasting" time. Usually in WA we'd book ourselves on a tour of a few vineyards for a birthday treat but I couldn't find such a scheme here in Podgorica so, after having my fingers burned by Montenegrin taxi drivers twice yesterday, we decided against hiring another today. Instead, I found the nearest one that Google was telling me was open, and we just walked there. It was actually a lovely walk. It took about an hour to cross the Millennium bridge over the river Morača and then march along its impressive gorge up stream to where it is joined by the Zenta tributary. The rain had kindly held off during this time but then the heavens opened when we crossed the bridge over the Zenta close to three vineyards.
Ten minutes under a shelter and the rain stopped again allowing us to complete the journey to the lovely Vučinić winery where we were greeted with open arms for wine tasting even though we hadn't booked. The owner explained all about each of the five wines we'd chosen. The first was the most delicious Chardonnay I think I've ever had. It was followed by a very nice and spicy Rosé. Next, it was a case of "Come on you reds". We started with a fruity Kratošija which was kind of like a light Beaujolais nouveau. Nice enough but it was easily surpassed by the next, a Vranac, which I think has taken over from Rioja and Shiraz as my new favourite. Full bodied and spicy. All of these go under the label "Zenta" a wine region of Montenegro that has a quality control system like the Appellation Contrôllée in France. Finally we had a smooth blended wine which they made specifically for a local restaurant. Nice. Then we were given a quick tour of the cool wine cellar and their very modern looking wine making equipment. We left feeling a bit guilty we'd taken up so much of her Sunday so I was very glad to buy a bottle of the Vranac to take away. It was a wonderful visit and all for just €30.
Upon the advice of the owner we then walked to the nearby ancient Roman site of Doclea which I have to admit I had not even heard of before. It turns out it once was a very big and important city and was the capital of the whole region.
Time was a ticking and as it got really hot again, I managed to rescue two tiny turtles from a grizzly road death. It was fast approaching beer O'clock and kick off time for my chosen Match of the Day, Chelski (Yes, I know Abramovich no longer owns them but their high status will always be in part a product of Putin's stolen billions) versus United Arab Emirates City.
Talking of ill gotten gains, on the other side of the Zeta river near the Doclea Roman site there was a big mansion obviously owned by someone with a huge amount of money. When we asked the winery owner about it she told us the guy who owned it was a Bailiff!
Before the football, we walked back hoping to catch one of the three buses we'd spotted on the way, but no luck there. Instead we made a little detour and crossed the Morača over a footbridge so we could pay our disrespects to the Embassy of the so-called "Russian Federation". (Moscovian Kleptofascist Horde is more accurate).
Then it was back to downtown Podgorica and a pint of Hoegaaden whilst watching the end of Brentford's impressive 2-1 win over Crystal Palace. Next, round the corner to another pub to watch the first half of Chelsea v Man City with a pint of rather bland Tuborg lager.
I should state that throughout all this drinking and football watching, my dearest loveliest Lesley Jane was keeping parity with me and actually had some of my beer once because she finished before me! Is there no limit to her talent?
For the second half we went to a third pub, the Scottish McLeod where I'd watched Forest yesterday. City were, of course, too good for Chelsea despite the inclusion of Neto in the second half and the club owned by the oil money state ran out comfortable 2-0 winners with another clinical finish from the goal monster. The thought of a fifth Manchester City title on the trot just makes me feel sick. (Or maybe it's a hangover coming on!) Is England to become another country whose league is dominated by just one club?
Anyway McCloud's is a really friendly pub in which, every year on their birthday, they pin the names of any new regulars to the bar. Nice touch. I liked the Lav. (A local beer goes by that name, as well as the toilet!)
Beered up tut eyeballs, it was time for food and so we walked five minutes to a nearby restaurant called Lupo di Mare where we shared a mixed seafood platter and a bottle of Vranac. As the booze sunk in, we discussed this most amazing trip in this incredible year and just how lucky we were to be able to do it. Honestly, how lucky am I to have found such a wonderful person to share my life with? I am forever grateful to lovely Leb and truthfully feel I will die happy whenever that day comes only because of her.
I didn't realise I shared my birthday with the great Tim Snyder.
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Monday, 19th August.)
Day 164 ~ Podgorica Old Town Underwhelming Experience. Followed by Leicester v Spurs... not much better.
I guess after such a great birthday the next day was going to be flat but after a nice porridge brekkie the rains came back to put a damp squib on any plans we had.
In the afternoon the weather brightened and so we were able to go on our planned walk to the old town.
I am sorry to say it was a bit of a disappointment to say the least. Compared to Sarajevo, Mostar, Herceg Novi, Kotor, Sveti Stefan and Petrovac... this was nothing to write home about. So much litter everywhere too. Very disappointing.
Oh well. After a kebab chicken thing we went back to the apartment where I had a kip.
Then it was back out for me to watch the football. Spurs were so dominant in the first half at Leicester that 1-0 was flattering to Steve Cooper's lads. Inevitably Leicester improved in the second half and Vardy got a deserved equaliser. Still... a bit of a flop.
Anyway... Albania tomorrow!
Hercog Novi, Day Two. (Tuesday, 20th August.)
Day 165 ~ Doviđenja Crna Gora, Përshëndetje Shqipëri!
After 12 days in Montenegro it was time to leave and go to Albania. The original plan was to spend 4 or so days in Montenegro and ten or so touring the Albanian Riviera, but after I lost my driving licence in Vilnius the thought of long bus journeys in Albania made me reconsider. A bit of ChatGPT research opened my eyes to the coastline of Montenegro so I flipped the dates.
I think it was a great decision. The Montenegrin Coast is fantastic.
Anyway, we left our Podgorica apartment and walked twenty minutes to the bus station where we met three Aussie girls from Melbourne on a tour of Europe.
The three hour bus journey was great, winding our way through more amazing countryside to the border crossing right next to the beautiful lake Skhöder ...
... and then through the north of Albania until we reached the outskirts of Tirana.
I was tracing our progress on the bus with Google maps' GPS feature as we crawled through thick traffic towards the city center when the bus driver suddenly decided to stop and get all the passengers off. So, passengers from our bus and at least three others just got off and caught a regular city bus to the center.
Another 15 minute walk and we were at the Art Hotel, where I stayed two years ago during the 2020 Qatar World Cup.
After getting changed we headed to the vast Skanderbeg Square in the center of Tirana. Just as we were arriving there, for a strange moment, a dark storm seemed to be about to hit us. It went dark and high winds whipped in, stinging the backs of our legs with dust. But no sooner had it started when it had stopped again. Bizarre.
We had a couple of beers at a Cafe next to the opera theatre and then headed for a lovely Albanian restaurant I'd discovered last time I was here... Restorant Tymi. Unfortunately it was choc-a-bloc inside with a queue outside and no chance of reserving a table. So we traipsed around looking for other options and ended up with a nice salad for Leb and a quite disappointing simple kebab thing for me.
Oh well. Tomorrow!
