Antalya'da Altı Gün (Six Days in Antalya)

 

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Antalya'da Altı Gün [Six Days in Antalya]
Monday, 15th July 2024 - Sunday, 21st July 2024

Summary:

Türkiye was not part of our original plan. But as I wrote earlier, it became so when we realised what the Schengen rules were and so had to trade days in some countries for days in others. I had spend a few days in Istanbul before but Lesley had never been, so the plan was hatched to go to Antalya, a city I'd never visited and a place that was hot and on the Mediterraenean coast - a potential snorkelling spot. There was an element for fear, I have to admit, as there had been lots of stories in the news of Antalya being made a destination for many Russians who were determined to conveniently live abroad for a few years so they didn't have to face being sent to die in Ukraine. As it happened, those fears were completely false. I don't think we met a single Russian while we were there.

   We enjoyed the heat and the seaside location, as well as the food. It was largely a booze-free stay and I think we drank more of the delicious yoghurt drink, Ayam, than anything else. Our accomodation was great value, being an appartment at the top floor of a block of flats. It has a washing machine and a balcony where our clothes could be dried. The only problem was that the stair case was mysteriously blocked off, so we had no choice but to use the lift to go up and down every day. The thought of fire was frankly, quite terrifying at times but overall it was a great stay.

One of the main objectives for this leg of the journey was to try to get Leb's continuing back problem diagnosed, at least. She'd been struggling with the pain of this for over forty days now and we still just assumed it was sciatica. So, at least after seeing a physiotherapist here in Antalya we knew that was not the case - it was worse: Sacro-Iliac Joint dysfunction.

The other objective was to relax in the hot Mediterraenean sun and lol around by the sea for a week - we did that easily.

Schengen Shenanigans...

Do widzenia, Polska; Merhaba Türkiye.  (Monday, 15th July.)

After leaving Poland we headed southeast over Romania and got a view of the Bosphorous (I think) as we reached Türkiye. We arrived in the Southern city by the Med. by mid afternoon.

Once inside the very busy airport, we bought tram tickets for 56 Turkish lire each. The first one I paid with two 50 lire notes and the machine gave me 44 one lire coins as change. It was like winning on a slot machine.

The tram itself was really comfortable. It was air conditioned and timely. We arrived at our 58th place to stay, hoping for a relaxing six days so that Leb can finally get some relief from what we still believed was her sciatica.

It was warm enough in Krakow but we were still looking forward to an increase in temprature and a more sedentary and relaxing time in the Mediterranean coastal city on the Turkish Riviera. 

Very busy Antalya airport

We found the street our accomodation was on easily enough but to find the actual room, and someone able to let us in was more challenging. Luckily, just a stone's throw away was a nice restaurant so we went in there to connect to WiFi and get in touch with the owners whilst having a bite to eat. The staff at Etli Ekmekci were so friendly. We ended up going back there a few times during our stay.

Trying to walk down the staircase from our top floor apartment, I was met with this!

One of the first things you notice about Antalya, other than the heat, is how many cats there are.

Exploring Antalya Old Town  (Tuesday, 16th July.)

Day 130 ~ Chilling metaphorically but absolutely *not* literally in Antalya today. Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the mid day sun and that's what we did. Phew! What a Scorcher. 36C but felt much hotter. It was very humid, like a sauna.

One of the great things about our accomodation in Antalya was the in-house washing machine, along with a breezy outdour area on the roof of the building where we could dry them. This meant we could clean and recycle our sweaty clothes every day.

Once we left the flat, we bought some pharmacy essentials, had a nice kebab, and saw Hadrian's Gate (yup the same Roman Caesar that built the wall in England) and then wandered around the mazy affluent-looking old town.

On the roof

Our favourite drink in Türkiye

After getting very sweaty walking around in the 34C heat, in the evening I picked up a local kebab and then went back to the flat to watch the lionesses qualify for the women's Euros next year with a very professional point in Sweden.

Slobbing about by Antalya Bay  (Wednesday, 17th July.)

Day 131 ~ We spent the entire day slobbing about by the Med, remembering the best way to keep cool when it's red hot is to go for a dip. (So much for the savannah theory nonsense!) After a ridiculously lazy lie in we plodded back down to the old town knowing the short cut this time and 16 minutes walking later we were by the old harbour, having survived the descent down a scary-looking steep and slippery set of steep steps.

We had seen the tiny crowded beach (Mermerli Plaji) from.the cliff the night before realising we'd probably have to pay for a sun lounger and shade and it cost about $25 AUD for the two of us for as long as we wanted.

To get access to the tiny, packed beach area, you had to go through a restaurant who, I suppose undertandably, were cashing in on the fortuitous geographical position. It looked good for me though, as someone at the restaurant was clearly a big Forest fan.

I was a bit disappointed that it didn't really help much. One of owners of the Cafe that were renting out the beach slots was a big Forest fan and immediately produced a bag of flags, shirts and programs to prove it! The special treatment he promised us didn't really materialise through. Still, it was soooo nice to be immersed in cool water after strolling around in 33C of heat.

We took turns snorkelling around the cove. The water was clear and there were plenty fish but over by the groyne there were lots of empty tins of Tuborg lager and other rubbish. So sad.

After four hours of this it was back to the apartment. I popped out for some takeaway (kebab for me, salad for Leb) and our new favourite drink... Ayran. (Buttermilk?)

Search Antalya for a Physiothereputic Diagnosis (Thursday, 18th July.)

Day 132 ~ We really needed to do something about Leb's continuing back pains. Poor Leb had suffered now for over a month and we still had no definitive idea what the problem was other than some idea it might be sciatica. As the days had passed by, Leb had been researching the symptoms and decided that this was as good a place as anywhere to try to speak to a specialist. So Leb booked herself in to see an osteopath whilst we were in Antalya, a city of over 1.5 million people. (Thanks, by the way, to Krystyna Haq for the tip.) So apart from a couple of meals out and a bit of shopping, that was the focus of the day.

First, a lot of tea made in the lovely kettle we were provided with.

We loved the kettle

First stop was a cafe around the corner for some brekkie.

Then, we did a bit of shoping in a local supermarket.

Our next adventure was to try to find the physiotherapist across the city. We tried to catch a bus but it proved too tricky so we caught a taxi there and back instead.

Çetin Demercan was really thorough and after a series of diagnostic tests made a diagnosis and gave us a few exercises to try. So far so good. As we headed back to our apartment we both had fingers crossed this would be the start of a full recovery.

One more meal and that was us done for the day. We went back to the restaurant around the corner who had been so friendly to us on day one... Etli Ekmekci.

It was at about this time that Leb, having had her ongoing hip pains properly diagnosed, found through on-line research, a doctor of physical therapy called Ryan Peebles. His Core Balance Training Program was a game-changer for Leb and soon she had subscribed to his on-line course and was gaining the benefit.

Day at Konyaalti Beach, Scorching in Scorching Antalya (Friday, 19th July.)

Day 133 ~ Snorkelling under the cliffs by Konyaalti Beach.

A twenty minute walk from our apartment to the beach in 41C was a challenge but then we stumbled across a nice Cafe with the most spectacular view of Antalya's huge beach with the magnificent Taurus mountains as a backdrop. It was here that I had my first beers in five days.

Then we took the very swish (and free) elevator down to the beach where we found the perfect shady spot next to a huge rock on the very easternmost part of the beach which gave easiest access to the ocean. The place where you have to walk across the fewest red hot pebbles. You definitely needed footware today.

To step out of 42C into cool water was bliss. The snorkelling was spectacular with lots of incredible caves cutting into the cliffs above. The water was strangely mixed. One second warm and salty, next freezing and fresh, no doubt running down into the sea from underground streams. Bizarrely, the interface of these two types of water created a weird flurry of vortices that made the water blurry. It was a strange feeling to be so cold for a few moments that you wanted to get back on land to get warm again. Anyway. Magical.

During Leb's turn I listened to "Ukraine The Latest" the daily podcast from The Daily Telegraph. Today the reports were of the Moscovian Horde losing 1,000 men a day for the last two months and sending the walking wounded to die on the battlefield. Who wants to do business with such a regime?

Anyway, once we'd had enough it was back up the lift to the Cafe with a view (Falez Manzana) where I had a litre of ale and we shared a pizza.

Big Ants

Then back to the apartment via a fish restaurant to freshen up.

I then went back out for a haircut that was very skilfully done and included a head massage which was a bit weird.

I also bought some delicious baklava for Leb whilst she got some relief by lying flat on the appartment's rug.

Finially, back at the apartment I watched a live stream of Forest drawing 1-1 against Sunderland in a pre-season friendly in Murcia, Spain. Despite the the occasional bad news story like the Crowdstrike fiasco today, it's worth remembering how great IT is nearly all the time.

Last Day in Antalya (Saturday, 20th July.)

Day 134 ~ Last full day in Antalya. We wanted to spend the morning having a Turkish Bath but although I was quoted 600 Turkish Lire in the Men's section and was assured it would be the same price for Leb in the Women's, that turned out not to be the case. They asked her for 1200. So we decided against and had gözleme instead.

We tried to keep out of the worst of the soaring heat today and waited until 4pm before getring a taxi to Düden Park and the spectacular waterfall that plummets off the cliff directly into the sea.

It was still in the high 30s as we walked the long way back to the city center along a beautiful coastal path.

We stopped for a delicious fish dinner before continuing towards Antalya Old Town.

We stopped again to witness a glorious sunset before plodding on, ever more wearily, before I hailed down a taxi (at an exorbitant price) to take us the last few kms.

K N A C K E R E D !

Güle güle Antalya (Bye Bye Antalya, Sunday, 21st July.)

Day 135 ~ Flying over the Lower Duden Waterfalls towards Cyprus

We packed yet again and then realised there was a minor problem with the blinds on the door. I reported it to the owner and did one of my terrible bodge jobs before doing the "goodbye video" of the place.

Then we left our Antalya home for six days and caught a taxi to the airport.

Going through security I had a scare when I left my leather jacket at the first scan and had to go back for it and another when I left a cork screw somewhere in my bag.

When we did get through to the gate area it was packed. Many flights had been delayed by an IT outage and the backlog was still there to be seen. Eventually we did get to sit down and, luckily our flight (15th of this holiday) was hardly delayed at all.

The plane flew over the Lower Duden waterfall we'd seen the day before and set off south-east twoards our next destination... Cyprus.

Finansal Özet (Financial Summary)

Antalya should have been one of the cheapest places in our trip so far, but thanks to my crazy football fanatacism and England unexpectedly reaching the final of the Euros, we ended up paying effectively twice the travel fare from Poland to the Turkish city which elevated the overall cost of our stay somewhat. Instead of being the 5th cheapest stay in terms of daily aveerage, it was, as we say in the football world, mid-table. 

Still, the food was cheap and our accomodation was good value for money if you ignore the fact that the staircase was blocked.

Ruh Hali Özeti (Mood Summary)

There were no really bad moods in Antalya apart from getting rwally knackered walking back to the city center from the waterfall. We were both a bit miffed at the attempted rip off (of Lesley, not me) at the Turkish bath on the final full day and one taxi ride to the airport seemed a bit excesive but it was generally a happy stay although I did get a bit depressed about politics and religion at one point. The fear that the USA was slipping toward authoritarianism as Joe Biden continued to fumble on was really scary and, I have to be honest, the five-times-daily Adhan, starting at 5 in the morning really started to get to me. 

It sounds quite beautiful the first few times you hear it upon arrival, but imagine living a life where that is happening every day. Imagine actually understanding the words of slavish servitude over and over again. One line, apparently, is "Prayer is better than sleep". Well, forgive me but may I respectfully disagree. As an atheist for over fifty years I find it rather sad to be encouraged to believe, through a megaphone, that God is Great, no, the greatest.

Anyway. Rant over. The best day (19-0) was the Friday, when we went snorkeling by the beach, certainly one of the top twenty days so far.

Alkollü İçecekler Özeti (Booze Summary)

As the saying goes... when in Rome. So, in a predominently muslim country like Turkiye there wan't going to be much boozing and I'm only surprised that this wasn't the driest of stays (Norway somehow claimed that spot). Just a few beers on that happy day by the beach and a couple of tinnies in the room on the final night then.

Tatil Güncellemesi (Holiday Update)

14 countries ticked off now but still not quite half way through our trip. 

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